Raffaele Troisi took over his family's farm in Montefredane in 1984, and now bottles six wines from 24 acres of fiano, greco and coda di volpe vines

Of his 2014s, this fiano was a standout, pulled from a steep slope of vines averaging 30 to 35 years of age. It's richly textured, the apple and lemon notes accented by smoke and herbal tea, yet what takes center stage is the intense salinity. The core of bright acidity promises that this will age well over the next decade—a fact that Troisi likes to emphasize by treating guests to Aipierti bottlings going back to the 1980s. W&S editor Josh Greene dubbed it "the chenin of Italy," and its waxy, dense texture and savory flavors would make a delicious match for roast pork with mostarda. Stephanie Johnson


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